By Arkajyoti Sarkar Vagabond Riders 2020 (Assam Wing)
Assam, the gateway to Northeast India, is often associated with its famous tea plantations and the Kaziranga National Park. But beyond these well-known attractions lies an Assam that's rarely touched by tourism, full of raw beauty, isolated villages, and roads that challenge even the most seasoned bikers. For a true explorer, these undiscovered routes are where the magic of Assam lies.
From the green tea plantations and raw hills of Bongaigaon to the peaceful waters of the Dibru-Saikhowa National Park, riding through Assam's hidden trails means riding through a world of breathtaking landscapes, traditional villages, and wildlife sanctuaries still untouched by the usual tourist routes. Here's a deep dive into what I discovered on my ride through the lesser-known gems of Assam.
Bongaigaon: The gateway to Assam
Nestled in the western part of Assam, Bongaigaon is often overlooked by travellers making their way to the popular spots of Northeast India. But for Motorcyclists seeking an off-the-beaten-path adventure, Bongaigaon offers a perfect blend of scenic routes, cultural richness, and hidden natural treasures.
The Path to History
Bongaigaon is a small town known for its history and scenic beauty. Here, the main attraction is the Bagheswari Hill, a serene place with the ancient Bagheswari Temple on its base. According to Hindu mythology, this is the place where Devi Durga's Trishul fell down when her body was cut into pieces by Lord Vishnu just after Dakshya Yagya. This temple is considered as the most visited place in Assam and it has special importance during Durga Mahaashtami when the buffaloes are sacrificed. The uphill trail to the Bagheswari hilltop was a bit challenging but rewarding, offering a panoramic view of the surrounding green landscape. For a motorcyclist, the uphill curves add that little bit of excitement, and the quiet surroundings provide a peaceful break from the road.
Nakkati Hills
Another untouched place called the Nakkati Hills is just a 10 kms ride from the main city of Bongaigaon. Nakkati is a local name in the Assamese language which means "Cutting Nose". There are many local stories related to the hill and people of the locality believe Maa Maharani (Goddess Parvati) had a mythological relation with this hill; they also built a temple of the goddess in the village. The cliff of Nakkati peak resembles the McAfee peak in the USA and the site is still untouched by tourists and hikers.
Kakaijana Reserved Forest - Nature's Playground
One of the highlights of Bongaigaon is the nearby Kakaijana Reserved Forest, a lesser-known sanctuary for Assam's wildlife. The ride to Kakaijana was thrilling, with narrow trails that took me deeper into the forest. Known for its golden langurs, Kakaijana is a paradise for anyone who loves nature and wildlife. Walking through the dense greenery, spotting the langurs swinging from tree to tree, felt like a scene from a nature documentary. The terrain here is rugged, perfect for nature lovers and enthusiasts. A short trek takes you to a beautiful waterfall inside the dense forest.
Joybhum Kamakhya Temple - A Cultural Stop
Another hidden gem was the Joybhum Kamakhya Temple, located on a hilltop and surrounded by myth and legend. The temple is less crowded than Assam's famous Kamakhya Temple in Guwahati but carries a similar spiritual aura. The ride up to the temple was steep, with a series of winding roads that added a bit of a thrill to the journey. Standing on the hilltop, I soaked in the peaceful ambiance and the distant views of the plains below.
Evening by the Aie River
As the day drew to an end, I made my way to the banks of the Aie River, which flows gently along the outskirts of Bongaigaon. The soft evening light on the water created a calm scene, a perfect spot to relax after a day of riding. I parked my motorcycle, took off my helmet, and let the cool breeze off the river refresh my senses. Locals often gather here in the evenings, adding to the friendly, down-to-earth vibe of Bongaigaon.
Bongaigaon may not be on every biker's map, but its mix of natural beauty, winding roads, and peaceful atmosphere make it a perfect hidden gem for those willing to explore. From forest trails and ancient temples to scenic river views, this part of Assam promises a refreshing ride and a unique experience for motorcyclists looking to step off the beaten path.
Haflong: Assam's Only Hill Station
Haflong is Assam's only hill station, tucked away in the Dima Hasao district. Known for its rolling hills and cooler climate, Haflong has a calmness and charm that pulls you away from the busy plains below. The roads are winding and often steep, but they offer jaw-dropping views of the valleys covered in mist and pine forests.
Exploring Jatinga - The Valley of Mysteries
Just outside Haflong is Jatinga, a small village with an eerie reputation. Jatinga is known worldwide as the "valley of bird suicides" because, during certain months of the year, migratory birds mysteriously dive to their deaths here. Riding through Jatinga feels surreal, and learning about this natural phenomenon adds a unique touch of mystery to the adventure.
Camping by Haflong Lake
Haflong Lake is one of Assam's most beautiful lakes and a perfect spot for a night under the stars. I set up camp by the lake's edge, surrounded by pine trees and the sounds of the forest. Waking up to the mist rolling off the water was an unforgettable start to the morning. The place is serene and untouched, a sanctuary for anyone looking to escape the rush of modern life.
Dibru-Saikhowa National Park: A Biker's Paradise in the Wild East
From Haflong, I rode north towards Dibru-Saikhowa National Park, a paradise for any motorcyclist with a love for wildlife and remote trails. Located in the Tinsukia district, this park is one of the few riverine islands in India and one of the least-visited wildlife areas in Assam. Here, the Brahmaputra and Dibru rivers carve paths through the park, creating channels, wetlands, and small islands teeming with life.
Riverine Forests and Wild Horses
The park is known for its wild horses, or feral ponies, believed to have descended from domestic horses that were abandoned during a massive flood. Riding through Dibru-Saikhowa feels like stepping into a different world - the dense forests, lush greenery, and silence broken only by the call of exotic birds or the rustling of these wild ponies make for an extraordinary experience.
Boat Safari on the Brahmaputra
A boat safari along the Brahmaputra River gave my motorcycle a break, but it added a new layer of adventure. The river here is wide and powerful, and drifting along its surface while spotting Gangetic dolphins was a thrill. There's something incredibly freeing about exploring this hidden paradise where land meets water, and civilization fades into the wilderness.
The Mystical Paths of Majuli: World's Largest River Island
Majuli is known to some, but it's still a largely unexplored destination for motorcyclists. This river island, located on the Brahmaputra, is a cultural gem as well as an adventurer's dream. The ride from Jorhat to the riverbank and the ferry ride to Majuli itself were challenging but rewarding, with my motorcycle perched on a wooden ferry crossing the powerful Brahmaputra.
Sattras and Cultural Immersion
Majuli is home to several Vaishnavite monasteries called sattras, where monks practice traditional art, dance, and music. Visiting places like Auniati Satra and Dakhinpat Satra was a cultural deep dive into Assamese heritage. Riding through Majuli's narrow paths, with lush rice paddies and stilted bamboo houses, offered glimpses into a way of life that feels untouched by time.
Exploring Pottery and Mask-Making
Majuli's potters are known for their unique techniques, and I spent time with artisans who create clay pots without a wheel, using skills passed down through generations. Another fascinating craft here is mask-making, used in traditional dance dramas. The artists were more than happy to demonstrate the craft, giving me an insight into the island's deep connection to its heritage.
Pobitora Wildlife Sanctuary: The Alternative to Kaziranga
Kaziranga often steals the spotlight, but Pobitora Wildlife Sanctuary, just 40 km from Guwahati, offers an equally thrilling experience with fewer crowds. Known for having the highest density of one-horned rhinoceroses in the world, Pobitora's smaller area makes it easier to spot these majestic creatures.
Morning Ride Through the Sanctuary
One of the highlights was an early morning ride through the sanctuary, with mist hanging low over the grasslands and the silhouette of rhinos grazing in the distance. The park's rough trails are challenging and fun for bikers, with narrow paths cutting through marshlands and forests that offer up-close encounters with Assam's incredible biodiversity.
Birdwatching on the Wetlands
Pobitora is also a haven for birdwatchers, and the wetlands within the sanctuary attract migratory birds from as far as Siberia. I spent some time at a secluded spot by the water, observing flocks of pelicans and storks. Even for those not particularly into birdwatching, the diversity of life here makes for an inspiring pause on the road.
Sualkuchi: The Silk Village
Sualkuchi, known as the "Manchester of the East," is a traditional silk-weaving village located about 35 km from Guwahati. The road to Sualkuchi winds through small villages and paddy fields, making it an enjoyable ride with a touch of rural Assam at every turn.
Discovering Muga and Eri Silk
Sualkuchi is famous for its Muga silk, known for its golden sheen, and Eri silk, which is warm and soft. Watching weavers work on looms, creating intricate designs with delicate threads, gave me a new appreciation for the skill and dedication of Assam's artisans. I even took home a scarf as a keepsake, a piece of Assam's heritage wrapped in silk.
Riding Along the Brahmaputra
The village sits on the banks of the Brahmaputra River, so I ended the day with a ride along the river's edge, watching the sunset over the water. Sualkuchi's quiet charm, combined with its rich textile tradition, made it a perfect stop on this journey.
Bogamati: Assam's Hidden Gem for Adventure
For motorcyclists looking for a mix of nature and thrill, Bogamati is a lesser-known destination that offers everything from riverside camping to off-road trails. Located near the Bhutan border, Bogamati is where the hills meet the plains, and the Bornadi River cuts a path through rocky terrain.
Off-Roading by the Bornadi River
Bogamati's rugged terrain is ideal for off-roading. I spent hours riding along the riverbank, navigating boulders, sandy stretches, and uneven trails. The landscape, with its open meadows, forests, and the Bhutan hills as a backdrop, is incredibly scenic. Camping by the river, with a bonfire and stars above, was an experience that blended the thrill of adventure with the peace of nature.
Hiking to Secret Waterfalls
A short trek from the campsite led to a hidden waterfall nestled in the forest. The hike was challenging, but the reward was a secluded waterfall surrounded by untouched wilderness. The water was icy cold, and taking a quick dip after the ride was refreshing.
The Char-Chapori Regions: Exploring Assam's River Islands
The Char-Chapori regions are river islands scattered across the Brahmaputra, formed by alluvial deposits over centuries. These areas are culturally rich but remain largely unexplored. Riding through this unique landscape is an adventure in itself, with narrow, sandy paths leading through fishing villages and rice fields.
A Day with the Fishermen of Umananda
One of the highlights was visiting Umananda, a small island in the Brahmaputra, home to a temple and a few fishing families. I spent a day by the sandbanks, learning about the local fishing techniques, and watching the sunset over the river from the island's highest point. These islands offer a slower pace and a sense of remoteness that's rare to find elsewhere.
Endless Horizons and Rustic Beauty
The char areas, with their vast skies, isolated communities, and rustic charm, are a stark contrast to the dense forests and mountains of Assam. Riding here felt like a journey into a different world, with fewer people and an open landscape stretching as far as the eye could see.
Reflections on Unexplored Assam
Exploring the lesser-known parts of Assam by a motorcycle is a journey through a world that's still beautifully raw and real. This is a region where nature, culture, and adventure come together in harmony.